Alpine Rock Progression Program, 4-Day
How does alpine rock climbing differ from sport, mutli-pitch or other crag climbing?
With mountain storms and big objectives speed is safety in alpine terrain. This doesn’t mean we do things with less security. The goal is to provide appropriate security to match the hazard of the climb or the terrain that we are climbing in.
The skills and techniques taught during this course are a strong foundation for the aspiring alpinist. This course is conducted in easily accessed and unmatched alpine rock terrain on Pikes Peak. With this ease of access we have more time to work on systems, skills and climbing. Like our 4-Day Mountaineering Course this is an intensive program and our participants take this training to the great mountain ranges of the world.
Trip requirements: This is an intermediate level course and some previous rock climbing experience is necessary. Days average 9 hours so all participants should be in great physical condition.
Skills taught but not limited to:
- Risk management in alpine terrain
- Knot craft
- Belaying techniques for rock
- Anchors in alpine rock terrain
- Terrain belaying
- Shortened pitch techniques
- Kiwi coiling for adjust the rope length to match terrain
- Rock climbing movement
- Efficient rope management
Glen Cove on Pikes Peak
Pikes Peak- Zebs Arete
North Cheyenne Canon
Rocky Mountain National Park
This is an intermediate level course and some previous mountaineering/climbing experience is necessary. Expect to spend up to 10 hours in the field each day. All participants must be in great physical condition.
Group and technical gear (not included on gear list)
• AMGA Certified Alpine Guide or IFMGA Mountain Guide leading courses
• Group gear, permits
• Lodging in Colorado Springs between field days
• Transportation and Pikes Peak Highway tolls ($10-15 per day)
Sample Course Itinerary:
Day 1: Rock Climbing – Crag, Elevenmile Canyon Canyon or Cheyenne Canyon.
• Trad Placements and Anchors refresher
• Rock Movements skills for alpine climbing. Rock shoes, approach shoes, boots
• Rope systems and multi pitch transitions
• Multi-pitch Rappelling
Day 2: Rock Climbing – Crag, Elevenmile Canyon or Cheyenne Canyon.
• Alpine Anchors (rock anchors appropriate for the terrain) • Alpine strategies, fast and light without sacrificing security • Basic Self Rescue Skills, raising, lowering, leader rescue • Gear/Packs and risk management for alpine climbing
Day 3: Alpine Terrain – Pikes Peak
• Kiwi Coils, shortening the rope to match pitch length and terrain
• Short pitching and short roping techniques (added security with speed in “easy” terrain) • Seated/standing belays, terrain feature belays
Day 4: Alpine Rock Objective – Pikes Peak.
• We’ll climb an alpine rock route high on Pikes Peak (4th class to 5.6 range). In this terrain we’ll be moving fast and utilize the alpine rock techniques to accomplish a route in good style. Lots of transitions
Day Five and Six: Optional days additional for coaching/mentorship or another big alpine objective in Rocky Mountain National Park. Additional charge for these two days.
• If you want more time in the lead with the watchful eye of your guide, we can build in a few more objectives days. This would allow for more coaching and refinement of skills and technique. Day Four objective might be shifted into one of these days to allow more up front coaching and build up into the bigger objectives
Guides will tailor this itinerary in order to best match the skills and interests of the group with the mountain weather and route conditions.
Public Course Pricing
- 36-40 hour public course (4-day)
- Price is per person
- 4:1 max. ratio
- 2:1 min. ratio to run course
*Pikes Peak Highway tollgate fee of $15/person/day not included when we use the highway.
Call 719-368-9524 or contact us to book this course for one or more climbers.
As always, this course can be scheduled any day of the week as private instruction.
Public Course Dates 2023
Pikes Peak Alpine School operates under special use permits from the USDA Forest Service, Pike National Forest and is an equal opportunity service provider & employer